Fizik Arione noisy?

[Prydey]

I have a rhythmic dull 'clicking' sound keeping time with my cadence. It doesn't happen when I stand so reasonable sure its coming from the saddle. I googled it and found its not uncommon with this particular saddle.

I cleaned the seat post and reinstalled with carbon paste, just to rule that out also.

If I hold the rear of the seat and pull up while pushing down in the middle with my thumb, I can replicate the sound. I can't see any sign of cracking on the underside and the shape still seems fine. I sprayed some silicon spray where the rails meet the seat as well. I cleaned the seat mount bracket and put it all back together dry. Some say to apply paste of some sort, but to me the sound is too consistent and rhythmic to be a dry joint.

Anyone else come across anything like this and found out precisely where its coming from? The saddle is a R3 version, i'm pretty sure. stickers have partially worn off but pretty sure its a 3.

Can't really stretch for a new saddle so hopefully i can fix the noise in this one. Its still quite comfortable to ride which makes me think its not actually broken anywhere, or at least anywhere that matters structurally.

Thanks in advance for any advice or help.

[Tim]

The sound might be coming from the saddle rails and the clamp.
Undo the saddle clamp and grease the rails and the contact points on the clamp.This has worked for me in the past.
Every now and then I dribble a few drops of oil onto these points if the noise returns.
Do the clamp bolt/s up very tight, unless your saddle has carbon rails. Forget about correct torque unless carbon. It would take lots of torque to crush steel rails.
I ride 3 bikes fitted with Arione saddles. One used to creak until I did it up super tight.

[Prydey]

I'll try that. I went dry install first as I didn't think the sound was random enough to be caused by a dry joint or contact. Sound is very consistent.

To add to the story, I heard a crack sound a while back when I hit a pot hole I didn't see. Not sure if this is when the noise started but could have been a contributing factor.

[Prydey]

OK, scratch everything.

I removed the seat again, and while it takes a lot more effort due to lack of leverage, I was able to replicate the sound by trying to 'pivot' the seatpost. If I take the seatpost clamp out of the equation it still does it. funnily enough, if I take the seatpost out to its minimum insertion length, it doesn't do it. Its almost like the bottom of the seatpost is not snug in the seat tube and is making noise as the seatpost pivots around the clamp area, causing the base to make contact with the inside of the seat tube.

At least I know my saddle is fine. One expense spared. Now to google seat post noises and solutions.

[Tim]

What sort of bike?
I've had troubles in the past with Giant's D-Fuse wedge type seatpost clamps.
Ample application of carbon paste worked.

[Tim]

Check for cracks in the seatpost itself.
And frame cracks.

[Prydey]

What sort of bike?
I've had troubles in the past with Giant's D-Fuse wedge type seatpost clamps.
Ample application of carbon paste worked.

Cannondale supersix evo hi mod.

I took the clamp off and could still get the noise to happen. Maybe I need to be a bit more liberal with the carbon paste?

Seatpost itself looks fine. If there are cracks they aren't evident to the eye.

[Tim]

Sometimes a creak can come from the handlebar clamps or stem.
Are you pushing against the bars when you push and pull the seatpost?

Another thought. Is the seatpost clamp a collar type? If so, take it off, grease the bolt and threads and grease the collar part where it wraps around the seat tube.

Sometimes creaks can come from the dropouts. You might be transferring the force down to the wheel and dropouts. Take the wheel out and grease the dropouts on both (4-inner and outer) surfaces.

[Prydey]

Sometimes a creak can come from the handlebar clamps or stem.
Are you pushing against the bars when you push and pull the seatpost?

Another thought. Is the seatpost clamp a collar type? If so, take it off, grease the bolt and threads and grease the collar part where it wraps around the seat tube.

Sometimes creaks can come from the dropouts. You might be transferring the force down to the wheel and dropouts. Take the wheel out and grease the dropouts on both (4-inner and outer) surfaces.

All 'testing' today has been static, as in, standing next to the bike. Only touching the seatpost to make the noise happen. Seems to be easier to replicate it the more the post is inserted, which seems contrary to how you would think it would be. I've now completely reassembled it and will see how it goes on my commute tomorrow. I could still get it to do the noise, but the direction of pushing/pulling isn't a natural direction when riding, so i'll see how it goes. I don't think its being transferred from anywhere else, as when I ride the bike, if I stand up its silent.

The clamp is a collar type, however I could get the noise to happen with that removed from the bike.

I have a caad8 but not sure if the seat tube is the same diameter. If I can't make it silent I could always swap bits over and see what happens.

Thanks for trying to help. Chasing noises is a frustrating exercise.

[Tim]

Chasing noises is a frustrating exercise.

For mildly OCD types like myself a mystery creak spoils every ride until I can eliminate it.

It might be that the inserted seatpost is making contact with the inside of the seat tube as both the frame and the post flexes a little bit.
Good Idea trying a different post.
Last resort you could always cut a lower section of the seatpost off. Allowing of course for a minimum length of insertion.
I'm about to do just that with a new bike assembly. The seatpost I bought is at least 50mm too long and might interfere with the bidon screws on the inside of the seatpost.

[Prydey]

It might be that the inserted seatpost is making contact with the inside of the seat tube as both the frame and the post flexes a little bit.
Good Idea trying a different post.
Last resort you could always cut a lower section of the seatpost off.

I think that is what is happening. Tried it at various points as I was inserting seat post and it would only make the noise once it was inserted past a certain point. Unfortunately that point was higher than I need to have it.

I can live with it short term as long as I know it's not causing more damage which I don't think it is.

Being a cannondale it's unlikely to ever be completely silent

[g-boaf]

It might be that the inserted seatpost is making contact with the inside of the seat tube as both the frame and the post flexes a little bit.
Good Idea trying a different post.
Last resort you could always cut a lower section of the seatpost off.

I think that is what is happening. Tried it at various points as I was inserting seat post and it would only make the noise once it was inserted past a certain point. Unfortunately that point was higher than I need to have it.

I can live with it short term as long as I know it's not causing more damage which I don't think it is.

Being a cannondale it's unlikely to ever be completely silent

Arione R3 came in two versions, the one with the metal rails and the one with the braided carbon rails. I've found on some saddles that where the rail joins to the saddle itself can be noisy as well. I've had a few Specialized saddles doing that, the old Romin Pro (two of them both did that) and the Romin Evo (the very exotic light one).

Obviously not related to your issue but in case anyone else has the problem, do check this as well.

[Tim]

What's that you say about Cannondale!!!
I own a 10 year old CAAD9.
It's still my favourite bike.

Until this arrives and is built.
Any excuse to show off the new frame.


The old workhorse 30K+. Multiple rebuilds and still going strong.

[Prydey]

What's that you say about Cannondale!!!
I own a 10 year old CAAD9.
It's still my favourite bike.

Nice.

I've only just recently bought my evo.

I started riding late in 2012 on a CAAD8. Over 30k on that, so I understand. Rode it again on Friday due to rain and it was like putting on an old pair of comfy slippers. Best aluminum bikes on the market.

Carbon 'dales are a bit notorious for bb noises. Mine has a random click but waiting on a crank removal tool. If I line the non drive side crank up with the seat tube and squeeze, it will click.

I still love them though. My evo is awesome to ride.

[Prydey]

Hopefully I'm not celebrating too early but my commute to work was nice and quiet.

[Tim]

Good stuff.
Showing my age but a creaking bike is a bit like a scratch on a vinyl record.
If I know it's there I wait for and anticipate it.

[Duck!]

Slightly late reader to this thread, but..... many modern frames are fitted with a sleeve down the seat tube to encase the seatpost to a certain depth before flaring out to the "proper" tube shape further down. To cut manufacturing costs, manufacturers will fit the same length post to all sizes in the model range; a long post in a smaller frame may make internal contact in places that won't occur in a bigger version, causing noise. As long as sufficient insertion is retained (check post and frame specs, typically 80-100mm), it is not unreasonable - and in fact often necessary - to cut a bit off the bottom of the post. If there is a cutaway in the seat tube profile to tuck the rear wheel into, that limits how far the post can be lowered, make sure the post is not bottomed out, and if necessary cut a bit off to ensure it isn't, otherwise it will damage the frame in the cutaway area.

[Prydey]

I think the good clean up and carbon paste did the trick. Ridden plenty since and nice and quiet (except for the random cannondale bb click).

[Tim]

I'm all too familiar with noisy Cannondale BB's.
My CAAD9 has press-fit BB30 and clicked and creaked from Day 1.
I press the bearings in with a thin coating of Loctite 609 retaining compound, not threadlocker.
Works well and later on the bearings come out easily enough with a gentle hammer tap on the proper tool.

[Prydey]

I'm all too familiar with noisy Cannondale BB's.
My CAAD9 has press-fit BB30 and clicked and creaked from Day 1.
I press the bearings in with a thin coating of Loctite 609 retaining compound, not threadlocker.
Works well and later on the bearings come out easily enough with a gentle hammer tap on the proper tool.

It's next on the list. Only bought the bike about 1300km ago. Bought a crank puller last week. It's pretty good in general. Click only appears randomly, not all the time. Often when standing. I've cleaned and re greased head set.
If I rotate the non drive side crank so that it's level with the seat tube, and then squeeze them together, I can get a click sound. 99% sure it's the culprit.

My 2012 caad8 also has press fit bb30 but maybe aluminium is different as that's been quiet the whole time I've owned it (30000km+) and still on original bearings. I do regularly clean my bikes though, well, drive train anyway.

[MichaelB]

I'm all too familiar with noisy Cannondale BB's.
My CAAD9 has press-fit BB30 and clicked and creaked from Day 1.
I press the bearings in with a thin coating of Loctite 609 retaining compound, not threadlocker.
Works well and later on the bearings come out easily enough with a gentle hammer tap on the proper tool.

Minor thread hijack.
Tried in vain to find an easy source of Loctite 609 on the weekend without success, but found some Loctite 641 in my toolbox.

For BB30 creaky bearings, is this OK (lower strength than 609) or get my act together and get some 609 ?

[Tim]

641 should be fine. It's a medium strength (as 609 is) but fills a bigger max. gap.
I think 609 has been superseded by 641.
See page 16 and 17 of the guide.
http://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/hen ... gnGuidepdf
I've never used the activator/primer, just ensure absolute clean surfaces. I use a bit of steel wool first then clean and degreas both the bearing outer and frame housing with metho. A cotton earbud works well for coating both surfaces. I also carefully pack grease into the bearing space between the races and above the rubber seal. Used a flat bladed scalpel so that I could scrape the grease flush with the sides of the bearing. Purpose being to stop excess Loctite finding it's way inside the bearing as it's being pressed, ending up resting against the circlip. I imagine there is a bead of Loctite pushing ahead of the bearing during fitment.
Fiddly job but works for me.

[MichaelB]

Cheers. Per the linked guide, shear strength for the 641 is lower (1,700psi) vs 609 (2,300psi min).

Makes like easy, I’ll use what I have then

Have some Isopropyl alcohol handy, so will use that to clean.

Hopefully it’s “creak be gone !!!”

[Prydey]

Since starting the thread I've come full circle. The noise I thought was the saddle was actually the seat post. I've also since fitted a new sram press fit bb, and now my saddle really is noisy this time. Not annoyingly though and I'm pretty sure it's just where the rails go in to the seat, front and rear. If you were riding next to me you wouldn't notice. It can stay like it for now.