1x vs 2x

[warthog1]

My gravelly came equipped with GRX 2x.
I have however ridden with a few who have 1x.

Seems like you have slightly bigger gaps in your gears and it is also slightly less efficient
https://www.cyclingabout.com/drivetrain ... een-1x-2x/
Though the difference is not huge.
I guess 1x is a bit lighter and I would assume less chance of chain drop.
Staying 2x on my gravelly though.
It is working well for my use.

[trailgumby]

I guess 1x is a bit lighter and I would assume less chance of chain drop.
Staying 2x on my gravelly though.
It is working well for my use.

yes, I find the bigger gaps between gears on my 1x12 MTB *really* annoying. I was forced to convert my 2x trail bike to be consistent with the 1x XC race bike (which can't accept a front derailleur) because the difference in shift timing between the two systems was doing my head in when I swapped between bikes. I was continually getting hung up on obstacles because I was muffing my gear selection.

On the upside, it's one less thing I have to worry about with my left thumb - now it's only suspension lockout and dropper post lever. On a long off-road ride, the joint at the base of my thumb is a lot less sore.

Chain drop I have eliminated on my 2x11 road/gravel/cx bikes by using a K-Edge chain keeper. I still get occasional chain drop on the MTB when I have to pedal backwards half a revolution to ratchet over obstacles. It's OK if the chain is in the middle of the cassette, but if I'm at either end of the range, it comes off.

[Tim]

You left out the old 3x category.
I'm not doing much touring these days so my stripped down, 9 speed steel Vivente tourer has become my rail trail and bush bike.
On the front, 24/32/42 rings and a 12-34 cassette out back every eventuality is covered. From riding bitumen to the trails, good dirt roads, rail trail and steep walking tracks, I can ride them all.
Being a relatively small, light weight and not especially powerful rider I rely on high and consistent cadence to keep the pace, up and downhill.
Not in any way a fan of the 1x concept. Too many big gearing gaps would see me either bogged down in too high a gear or spinning like crazy in the next sequenced higher gear. I like to maintain a 80 - 90RPM cadence wherever I go.
9 speed parts are all cheap and durable. Can't say the same for the dinner plate cassettes.

[warthog1]

yes, I find the bigger gaps between gears on my 1x12 MTB *really* annoying. I was forced to convert my 2x trail bike to be consistent with the 1x XC race bike (which can't accept a front derailleur) because the difference in shift timing between the two systems was doing my head in when I swapped between bikes. I was continually getting hung up on obstacles because I was muffing my gear selection.

On the upside, it's one less thing I have to worry about with my left thumb - now it's only suspension lockout and dropper post lever. On a long off-road ride, the joint at the base of my thumb is a lot less sore.

Chain drop I have eliminated on my 2x11 road/gravel/cx bikes by using a K-Edge chain keeper. I still get occasional chain drop on the MTB when I have to pedal backwards half a revolution to ratchet over obstacles. It's OK if the chain is in the middle of the cassette, but if I'm at either end of the range, it comes off.

Thanks I don't have much experience of 1x at all. It seems the dominant spec on mtb however.
I'll steer clear on the gravelly.

[biker jk]

1x is a Sram promotion because they couldn't make a functioning front derailleur.

[warthog1]

1x is a Sram promotion because they couldn't make a functioning front derailleur.

[warthog1]

You left out the old 3x category.
I'm not doing much touring these days so my stripped down, 9 speed steel Vivente tourer has become my rail trail and bush bike.
On the front, 24/32/42 rings and a 12-34 cassette out back every eventuality is covered. From riding bitumen to the trails, good dirt roads, rail trail and steep walking tracks, I can ride them all.
Being a relatively small, light weight and not especially powerful rider I rely on high and consistent cadence to keep the pace, up and downhill.
Not in any way a fan of the 1x concept. Too many big gearing gaps would see me either bogged down in too high a gear or spinning like crazy in the next sequenced higher gear. I like to maintain a 80 - 90RPM cadence wherever I go.
9 speed parts are all cheap and durable. Can't say the same for the dinner plate cassettes.

Sorry missed your post.
Makes a lot of sense on a touring bike.
My Aldi "MTB" shaped object has 3x. It works and I have used the bottom and top gears.
Doesn't get ridden much at all however as the front "suspension fork" suffers such stiction that it is unpleasant to ride.

[Arbuckle23]

1x is a Sram promotion because they couldn't make a functioning front derailleur.

You've been reading Duck's notes

[bychosis]

It depends on the terrain you are riding. For hilly, off-road single track you don’t notice the gaps as much with 1x.

I’ve run 1x on mountain bikes for ages. Started with 1x9 when I bought a short cage derailleur by mistake and was building a lightweight bike. I really only notice gaps in the gears riding to and from trials on the roads.

My roadie commuter built from bits of a hybrid remains at 2x9 (was 3x but I ditched the granny ring) if building again I’d look at a couple extra gears on the back to keep road cadence more consistent.

[trailgumby]

1x is a Sram promotion because they couldn't make a functioning front derailleur.

Yep. Nailed it. They're almost as good as their brakes.

And Sensah Empire, which is a Chinese startup rumoured to be ex-SRAM engineers left behind when SRAM moved their plant inland for reasons of IP protection, can't make a decent front derailleur either if reports are accurate.

[owly]

My old XX front derailleur works sweet

Started out with a 1x build because all the cool kids were doing it, but didn't like the gaps, as mentioned.
Prefer a nice spread of 1tooth jumps when on the flats, so ended up putting together a custom cassette when changing to 2x.