Tubeless Tyre Sealant - Best ???

[MichaelB]

After mounting my Pirelli Gravel M tyres on the weekend, I'm getting low on my sealant stash.

I've been using Orange Endurance for a while without any real issues, but wonder what others are using and their experience ?

It seems like the Effetto sealant is getting a lot of love, but then again, the 'reviews' online have so many options, and so many different opinions/results, it's like a lottery.

Lemme know what to buy next - Road & Gravel use

[warthog1]

I have used Stans regular and Orange seal regular.
Orange seal is easier to clean off but I reckon Stans seals better.
Also used Hutchinson proect air I think it was called. Very similar to Stans.
Stans seems to form more of a clump inside the tyre at the puncture site than Orange seal.

There is a thread on WW and a couple bang on about Orange seal, particularly THY. I tried it and its ok but so is Stans.
The thicker "endurance" blends like what you are using now are probably better at higher road pressures, but they supposedly dont go through the valve for filling very well, so haven't bothered.

[Mr Purple]

I've used Stan's and Orange Seal (the normal, not the endurance) for both road and gravel. No issues with either.

The minute you can't put it down the valvestem it's not worth it. No intention to try the crazy ones like Silca.

[blizzard]

I've used OKO magic milk hi fibre on the road and it was ok at best. Now using Orange Seal it seems better.

On the MTB I currently have WTB TCS sealant, seems to last a long time and is cheap. However I haven't punctured on it.so who knows??

[RonK]

I have been using Stans since I first went tubeless about 5 years ago. It works well enough that I'm not motivated to change.

[MichaelB]

The thicker "endurance" blends like what you are using now are probably better at higher road pressures, but they supposedly dont go through the valve for filling very well, so haven't bothered.

I've filled it through the removeable core stems without any real issue.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Anyone used the Efetto stuff ?

[blizzard]

The thicker "endurance" blends like what you are using now are probably better at higher road pressures, but they supposedly dont go through the valve for filling very well, so haven't bothered.

I've filled it through the removeable core stems without any real issue.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Anyone used the Efetto stuff ?

I haven't used it but apparently the standard stuff is great for low pressures but struggles with road pressures. However there is an additional additive you can add to apparently improve sealing at high pressures.

[vosadrian]

Have you guys tried filling by unseating the tyre? I've been doing that for a while with stan's race which is one of the thicker sealants which I find is very effective.

To be honest, if I used thinner sealant that could go through the valve, I would probably still unseat the tyre and pour it in. I find it easier and less fiddly then removing the core and injecting it. Takes me 30 seconds to unseat a bit of the bead (with levers) to make a gap to pour it in. Use a measuring cup to get it in there, then just pop the bead back on and pump it up again. I normally use my air compressor. With a set of wheels in front of me I can do it to both in about 5-10 minutes. If I rushed I am sure I could do it under 5.

I find the stan's race to be very effective at puncture repair. It seals so much quicker than other thinner sealants I have used. Most often I don't know I even had a puncture until I remove the tyre later for some reason and see the repair on the inside.

[warthog1]

The thicker "endurance" blends like what you are using now are probably better at higher road pressures, but they supposedly dont go through the valve for filling very well, so haven't bothered.

I've filled it through the removeable core stems without any real issue.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Anyone used the Efetto stuff ?

I got it confused with the Stans race sorry.

[warthog1]

Have you guys tried filling by unseating the tyre? I've been doing that for a while with stan's race which is one of the thicker sealants which I find is very effective.

To be honest, if I used thinner sealant that could go through the valve, I would probably still unseat the tyre and pour it in. I find it easier and less fiddly then removing the core and injecting it. Takes me 30 seconds to unseat a bit of the bead (with levers) to make a gap to pour it in. Use a measuring cup to get it in there, then just pop the bead back on and pump it up again. I normally use my air compressor. With a set of wheels in front of me I can do it to both in about 5-10 minutes. If I rushed I am sure I could do it under 5.

I find the stan's race to be very effective at puncture repair. It seals so much quicker than other thinner sealants I have used. Most often I don't know I even had a puncture until I remove the tyre later for some reason and see the repair on the inside.

Done it once and had to seat with the compressor. Made quite a mess.
The bloody gravelking sk I fitted today required a tube in to seat the tyre, unseat one side and remove the tube before hitting it with the storage tank 240v compressor again. Would have made a big mess. Prefer to use the valve core if possible.

[MichaelB]

The Pirelli Gravel M’s that I recently fitted seated with the normal floor pump. Quite uneventful actually !!!

[warthog1]

Have only used Panaracers on those wheels, not on other wheelsets. None have seated with the track pump. Most difficult to seat, tubeless I've used. Once seated fine though.

[vosadrian]

Done it once and had to seat with the compressor. Made quite a mess.
The bloody gravelking sk I fitted today required a tube in to seat the tyre, unseat one side and remove the tube before hitting it with the storage tank 240v compressor again. Would have made a big mess. Prefer to use the valve core if possible.

I've never had any mess of any description (in probably 30 times). Not sure what you are doing to cause it. I normally put 30-50mL in a 700C/25mm. The sealant is not deep enough to make it to the bead and blow out the gap for me. And what is the difference to using injection anyway? My tyres unseat off the bead when they deflate regardless of the method of adding sealant. With the compressor, the bead takes almost immediately. The inflation method would be the same for me whether I inject or pour it in.

When I use the air compressor, I hold the wheel up with the valve at the top and my inflator on the valve with tyre off the ground. I do have a special inflator for presta valves. Maybe that is the difference.

Anyway... whatever works for everyone. I just didn't want anyone put off by thicker sealants which offer better puncture protection because of the inability to inject, if they had not at least tried the pour in method which I find to be no more trouble than injecting.

[warthog1]

Done it once and had to seat with the compressor. Made quite a mess.
The bloody gravelking sk I fitted today required a tube in to seat the tyre, unseat one side and remove the tube before hitting it with the storage tank 240v compressor again. Would have made a big mess. Prefer to use the valve core if possible.

I've never had any mess of any description (in probably 30 times). Not sure what you are doing to cause it. I normally put 30-50mL in a 700C/25mm. The sealant is not deep enough to make it to the bead and blow out the gap for me. And what is the difference to using injection anyway? My tyres unseat off the bead when they deflate regardless of the method of adding sealant. With the compressor, the bead takes almost immediately. The inflation method would be the same for me whether I inject or pour it in.

When I use the air compressor, I hold the wheel up with the valve at the top and my inflator on the valve with tyre off the ground. I do have a special inflator for presta valves. Maybe that is the difference.

Anyway... whatever works for everyone. I just didn't want anyone put off by thicker sealants which offer better puncture protection because of the inability to inject, if they had not at least tried the pour in method which I find to be no more trouble than injecting.

I didn't have the valve at the bottom. I use an air compressor that is capable of running a spray gun. Air blaster in the valveless, valve stem. 90-100 ml in a 40c tyre.
Only time I've tried and it made such a mess I haven't bothered again. That said Panaracers are very hard to seat on those rims, so maybe a bad tyre to try it on and it was a thin sealant. Orange seal or Stans reg, can't remember. They are relatively tough but grip, roll and wear well, so despite that, I'm happy to keep using them.

Can you post a pic or info of the inflator you use please? Sounds better than my air jet jammed in the valve stem.

[MichaelB]

From the Tubeless roadbike tyre thread

...
I have a few potentially stupid questions:
- I have Light Bicycle 'tubeless ready' hooked rims without the spoke holes. Do I need tubeless tape? I suspect the answer is 'no' because it won't do anything.

Theoretically, no. But some tyres are more sensitive than others.

...
- Do I need the special pump with the reservoir?

Again, depends. Some tyres (e.g. ones that come 'flat') spread into the sidewalls better, some like the Rubino Pro's that I have (and have been fitted previously, dont.
Again, can be dependant on tyres and rims.
If you look at this thread (viewtopic.php?f=34&t=105326&start=25), there are several options if you want to do a bit of MacGyvering rather than pay the $90+ cost of an OTS item. I'm doing the fire extinguisher version (the Pro level 'hack')

...
- What are the odds on my weak hands being completely unable to actually fit the things, such that I fling them with great anger into the backyard? I have multiple rim lever tools because I'm bad enough at fitting tubed tyres.

Some tyre/rim combo's just are painful (i.e. create blood trails) or work better with some of those tools, and some go on really easy.
I got one of those cheap lever tyre-putter-onner (a Crank Brothers Speedier Lever Tyre Lever Tool for a bargain $4.99) things a couple of Pushy orders ago, and it's good.

...
I was thinking of something simple like the Schwalbe Pro One to start. Other suggestions are welcome.

atm, it's up to price and what is actually available

Haven't actually done it yet ....

[vosadrian]

Can you post a pic or info of the inflator you use please? Sounds better than my air jet jammed in the valve stem.

I have a big compressor, but I don't need it. It seats very quickly and uses hardly any of the tank capacity for me. I have had times where I can't get it to seat no matter how I hard I try with the floor pump, and fire up the air compressor and it is done in a second or two. No need to remove the valve core ir anything. I do have the pressure in the tank maxed out though. I think it is over 120psi.

This is the inflator I use on my compressor:

https://prestacycle.com/products/presta ... -inflator

[warthog1]

Can you post a pic or info of the inflator you use please? Sounds better than my air jet jammed in the valve stem.

I have a big compressor, but I don't need it. It seats very quickly and uses hardly any of the tank capacity for me. I have had times where I can't get it to seat no matter how I hard I try with the floor pump, and fire up the air compressor and it is done in a second or two. No need to remove the valve core ir anything. I do have the pressure in the tank maxed out though. I think it is over 120psi.

This is the inflator I use on my compressor:

https://prestacycle.com/products/presta ... -inflator

Thanks, I'll grab one.
Yeah I have my compressor set around 110 psi. It dumps a heap of air with the air jet.
Most road tyres I can seat with the track pump. Those panaracers are a mission on those wheels though and need a heap of air fast in order to seat at all.