Tubeless roadbike tyres

[warthog1]

I refuse to pay that amount for riding around the streets or on dirt. I'll pay $100+ for racing tyres but not coffee shop or training rides.

Foo

I do have some sympathy for this attitude. It is just that tubeless has given the tyre manufacturers the excuse to charge way more than they previously did. It is my experience that it is way better than tubed, so much so, that it has almost eliminated punctures for me. They also ride well and going to wider rims also I have dropped pressure with larger tyres. Grip, comfort and wear have improved. I have no desire to go back tubed, as for me, tubeless is just so much better.
Still, not paying the ridiculous price asked for some of them. Conti aero 111 being one. Conti full stop in tubeless form actually. All over my $100- limit. Pirelli seems to be joining in with some of their tyres too. Plenty of people seem willing to pay it, so I don't see the price correcting anytime soon unfortunately.

[Thoglette]

Handmade tubulars?

https://www.fmbtires.com/

Absolutely. Don’t want to wear them out by using them for other purposes. And coffee stops are the only time that anyone will notice them

[warthog1]

Handmade tubulars?

https://www.fmbtires.com/

Absolutely. Don’t want to wear them out by using them for other purposes. And coffee stops are the only time that anyone will notice them

[2wheels_mond]

I refuse to pay that amount for riding around the streets or on dirt. I'll pay $100+ for racing tyres but not coffee shop or training rides.

Foo

I do have some sympathy for this attitude. It is just that tubeless has given the tyre manufacturers the excuse to charge way more than they previously did. It is my experience that it is way better than tubed, so much so, that it has almost eliminated punctures for me. They also ride well and going to wider rims also I have dropped pressure with larger tyres. Grip, comfort and wear have improved. I have no desire to go back tubed, as for me, tubeless is just so much better.
Still, not paying the ridiculous price asked for some of them. Conti aero 111 being one. Conti full stop in tubeless form actually. All over my $100- limit. Pirelli seems to be joining in with some of their tyres too. Plenty of people seem willing to pay it, so I don't see the price correcting anytime soon unfortunately.

In fairness, I get so much more mileage out of modern tubeless tyres that it evens out. Back when I started in 2012, a GP4000 23mm was only about $40 (so about $55 adjusted for inflation), but you were lucky to get maybe 3,000km on a rear tyre before it needed replacement. I just replaced a rear 30mm Pirelli P Zero Race TLR after 11,000km - with tubeless I am able to wear it down further, have less punctures, and a lower $/cost per km (at $85 per tyre for the Pirellis). The initial cost sucks, but the ability to have long lasting, puncture-resistant tyres that are still grippy and have a low rolling resistance is worth the trade-off to me. Well, at least at $85/tyre! Agree that anything above $100 is starting to look pretty wild.

[foo on patrol]

I refuse to pay that amount for riding around the streets or on dirt. I'll pay $100+ for racing tyres but not coffee shop or training rides.

Foo

I do have some sympathy for this attitude. It is just that tubeless has given the tyre manufacturers the excuse to charge way more than they previously did. It is my experience that it is way better than tubed, so much so, that it has almost eliminated punctures for me. They also ride well and going to wider rims also I have dropped pressure with larger tyres. Grip, comfort and wear have improved. I have no desire to go back tubed, as for me, tubeless is just so much better.
Still, not paying the ridiculous price asked for some of them. Conti aero 111 being one. Conti full stop in tubeless form actually. All over my $100- limit. Pirelli seems to be joining in with some of their tyres too. Plenty of people seem willing to pay it, so I don't see the price correcting anytime soon unfortunately.

In fairness, I get so much more mileage out of modern tubeless tyres that it evens out. Back when I started in 2012, a GP4000 23mm was only about $40 (so about $55 adjusted for inflation), but you were lucky to get maybe 3,000km on a rear tyre before it needed replacement. I just replaced a rear 30mm Pirelli P Zero Race TLR after 11,000km - with tubeless I am able to wear it down further, have less punctures, and a lower $/cost per km (at $85 per tyre for the Pirellis). The initial cost sucks, but the ability to have long lasting, puncture-resistant tyres that are still grippy and have a low rolling resistance is worth the trade-off to me. Well, at least at $85/tyre! Agree that anything above $100 is starting to look pretty wild.

I was getting 5-6000klms out of those when I was using them up at Bribie Island and it was very abrasive conditions with the sand blowing everywhere.

Foo

[warthog1]

I used to get about 4k km out out of GP4k s2 on the rear, they were my go to tyre. In a 23 though. They were a big tyre for the listed size. A 23 was all that would fit in the rear on the S5 and that was with a cigarette paper of clearance.
Got a touch over 5k km out of a 30mm rear Schwalbe pro one I got for $80-. It had a bit left, maybe 1k, but was getting thin. I wanted to try a 32 on the rear which is on there now. Measures 35mm on a 25mm int rim. The Reacto has excellent tyre clearance!

[Mr Purple]

Are we playing 'how long do we get out of tyres?' I should probably steer clear of this game.

Took the TCR for a decent ride today and have to say the Cadex 28mm 'Race' are pretty average for dry grip. Probably not too bad rolling resistance though, I think I'll put the 28mm GP5000 TR on next.

Anyone think I should skip 28mm and go straight to 30mm? Just seems a bit wrong.

[warthog1]

30 on the rear yes. Carries the weight and the drive. Aero is more important on the front wheel in clean air. With the bigger tyre you may be able to run less air and have tyre skip less as you stand and climb. That will be what is wearing them out.

[warthog1]

My Reacto came with AR60s that had tubes in and tubeless tape applied. I whipped the tubes out and used the supplied valves to go tubeless.
Was fine for 9 months or so but not many ks. I have been riding my WR50s instead.
Anyway I noticed a while back the rear tyre had gone flat. Removed the tyre and the rim tape was pulled away from the rim wall in several places. May have happened when I unseated the tyre. Anyway, I retaped the tyre and replaced the valve. Got it to seat but could not get it to hold air. Replaced the valve and all good. The supplied valve just has a cone shaped rubber bit that jams in the valve hole. The replacement valve has a flat rubber foot that sits over the valve hole and a section with soft rubber that pushes into the hole. Covers the rim tape around the hole much better.
Did a 100k ride on the wheels the other day and today I noticed the front was flat. Pulled the tyre and again the rim tape had moved. Nothing in the tyre when I removed it. Retaped and replaced valve. All good.
Sh it tape and sh it valves. Replaced both and ready to roll again.

I like the WR50s with no rim tape.Will buy wheels without spoke holes again next time I get some. Can't remember the last time I broke a spoke so unconcerned about having to use a magnet to get the spoke nipple out the hole.

[vosadrian]

I have 2 sets of tubeless wheels. Some Roval CL-50s and some cheap !!! Chinese Spam Brand !!! C88s. The Yoeleos have no spoke holes and no tape. Very easy to deal with and I like the concept. Having said that I got the Rovals in 2019, and I used them with the supplied rim tape for about 30k kms until just recently when I had to replace the tape. I expected to have to replace it sooner and was impressed how long it lasted. I only replaced because I topped up the sealant and to re-seat the tyre I pumped it up to high pressure (around 100-110psi when I normally ride at around 70-80), and it popped the tape through one of the spoke holes. So a good quality tape can be relatively trouble free also.