Europa goes Fixie

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europa
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Location: Just around the corner from Hanson Reserve velodrome

Europa goes Fixie

Postby europa » Sun Jan 07, 2007 5:04 pm

Yup, the deed has been done. My beloved Europa started her new career today as a FIXED GEAR BIKE :D

Madness I know :D

A fixed gear bike is one where the rear cog has no freewheel. You have one gear and you can not coast - while the wheels are turning, so are the cranks :shock: A track bike is such a beast, but in this case my Europa has been built as a road bike.

And here she is:

Image

Image
Look mum, only one gear :D

For this conversion, all I've done is remove all the 'geary bits', spun off the old cassette (well, destroyed the rotten thing, it didn't want to come loose under normal provocation), screwed on a track cog (3/32 dura ace - you can't use the 1/8 cogs usually fitted on track bikes here), shortened the chain and away I went.
Total cost - $35.

I was lucky. It's not unusual to have to redish the rear wheel to get the chain line right. In my case though, all I needed to do was add a 1/16" spacer to get a perfect chain line. :D Pity really, I was looking forward to redishing the wheel :?

No locking ring added - a road hub doesn't have provision for a reverse thread locking ring (like a track hub) and there aren't enough threads on the hub for a same thread locking ring. So I'm living without one but, despite what the Americans will tell you, local mechanics and a local rider of such a weapon don't believe I'll have a problem, particularly seeing I'll be using brakes rather than relying on my legs to slow down.

But what's it like to ride?

I've done 8km on her - the first ride - and man is it an intense workout. Completely different to riding a geared bike and just as different to riding a track bike around a velodrome (which I have done).

Firstly, you can not coast, at any time, for any reason. This becomes obvious when you first try to take off and find the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke - you can't just back pedal to bring the pedal around to a good starting position so, lift the bike by the seat, turn the wheel and then set off. Easy. But now you've got to get the other foot into the toe clip, a toe clip that is constantly moving. You can't just coast, tap it with your toe and slide your foot in. Mucho funo. I do need to buy some clipless pedals for her, mine are in use on other bikes, but that'll be just as much fun.

Okay, slowing down, can't coast again, not a problem, but when was the last time you pedalled INTO a roundabout full of traffic? :shock:

The trade off is though, once I've learned the skills, I'll have far greater bike control than you can have with a freewheel bike.

Then there are the hills. If it gets steep, you just have to mash away at them pedals. Coming up the last hill towards home, I was so stuffed that all I wanted was to rest but couldn't - to get that rest, I had to stand and sprint, then use the momentum to give me a couple of strokes rest.

And going down hills. Man I must have hit some fun revs - recorded max of 40km/hr - I've still to work out what my cadence was but I can assure you, I wasn't trying to go fast but my legs had no choice.

8 km with no rest, just constant effort. I was stuffed. Far harder than pushing hard on a geared bike over the same course for the same distance (it's one of my standard 'test' routes) - for the first time in months I was coughing phlegm.

So there she is, the old green girl starts her new career.

Richard

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tuco
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Postby tuco » Sun Jan 07, 2007 5:32 pm

Love the fifties (or is it sixties) touch with the white wall tyres.

You're braver than me riding a fixed gear in traffic.

531db
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Postby 531db » Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:39 am

Yo fixie!!

Welcome to the fixie club.

A few pointers.....

You can use a 1/8 sprocket with your 3/32 chainrings (I do), but you'll also need a 1/8 chain which can be had for the paltry sum of $8.98 from Big W. It also means you can use the cheaper 1/8 cogs (priced from $10-15 usually) in a far greater tooth size range than expensive Dura Ace.

I'd assume you actually removed a cluster rather than a cassette, from the hub of your wheel. If you have any threads left over after installing the sprocket, you can use an el cheapo older style bottom bracket lockring as a sprocket lockring. Nothing is unpleasant as a fixed cog doing the unwind and subsequent mass destruction of hub/spokes/chainstay/your good self as you hit the deck.

Incidently what size gearing do you have on your fixie?

Peter
3 fixies in the stable atm-
Mid 80's Guerciotti Track 50x15
1961 Dawes Dorado 40x16 (British club bike style)
1979 Falcon Black Diamond 51xwhatever (path racer style)

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europa
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Location: Just around the corner from Hanson Reserve velodrome

Postby europa » Mon Jan 08, 2007 11:23 am

Thanks for the tip on the 1/8" sprockets. I'm going to do the same to my son's 70's Gitanes this week and have a 1/8 sprocket on my desk at the moment. I reckon he'll need a new chain anyway (whereas mine can take a bit more abuse).

Yes, it was a gear cluster - I'm dodgy on terminology, that's why you find me trying to be pedantic about it on here ... in the hope I'll finally learn it. There's only one thread left so a BB locking ring isn't an option. I don't think it'll be a problem, especially as I don't plan to be doing any big skids or anything extreme like that and am using brakes .

To tighten down the cog, I pushed a piece of wood through the chainring, the frame and under the otherside crank, draped the chain over both the chainring and the cog, and tightened the cog using the wheel for leverage - man was that some scary leverage and I was amazed at how much further I could pull the cog onto the threads.

The Europa's running 42/16 with 27x1 1/4 wheels. Seemed to work rather well yesterday and man you get some scary cadences. I'm in rather a hilly area so I'm in no rush to go to higher gears.

Richard

531db
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Postby 531db » Wed Jan 10, 2007 6:09 pm

Yeah 42x16 (70.9") is a pretty handy allround gear ratio as long as the hills are not too long or steep.
I like to keep my gear ratio's around the 66 -72" mark for general use, Audax riding etc. Track racing is another matter, I start the season on 90.0" (50x15) and see how I go from there - most likely to 93.6" (52x15).

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Postby mikesbytes » Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:15 pm

I'm running 92" on the track, but for the road somewhere between 70" and 80" depending on the rider is good.
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?

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