Show us your super light road bike

[warthog1]

I would say that the bars on that Scott are fitted very unconventionally. The main thing that dictates optimal bar angle is the position on the drops. If you think about how the hand positions change when the bar is rotated, the tops remain in the same position and the hoods are largely unaffected as you can mount/adjust them independently of the bar. The biggest change is the position of the drops, hence bar rotation is dictated by this. I am not taking a swipe at you, but I think with the development and popularity of compact bars (where they are largely designed so that an optimal drop angle has the top of the bar/shoulder parallel to the ground) everyone now just wrongly assumes that the bar should be rotated so that the top/shoulders of the bars are parallel to the ground. If you look at some older traditional shaped bars, achieving this parallel top section by rotating the bar up and mounting the hoods on the furthest point from the handlebar would result in a ridiculous bar position.



Here is an example of a very poor bar rotation. The drops behind the levers are basically perpendicular to the ground, you would have to bend your wrists a lot (and uncomfortably) just to ride in the drops.


Here is an example of a bike of similar handlebars with much better rotation. As you can see it is rotated down and the hoods are mounted higher as a result.

Both those photos look pretty ordinary IMO. The bars on both have a relaxed angle where the hoods mount.
We come in all different shapes and sizes, what is comfortable is what counts. The poster I was responding to was not comfortable so I tried to give him some ideas that have worked for me. They will either work or not.
I cbfed taking a photo of my S5 but it is almost level where the hoods mount on the 3T ergonova bars and I can sit in the drops for hours. The levers are mounted in the middle of the guide markings. I reckon this is because the bars have a much tighter bend where the hoods mount than the ones posted.
You've made me think about handlebars a bit anyway so thanks.

[Homo Suburbiensis]

But that is the point that I am trying to make ... the angle where the hoods mount (i.e. getting a smooth transition by making the top section/shoulders of the bars parallel to the ground) shouldn't be used purely for the rotation of the bar, it should be the angle of the drops.
Here is an example, which shows that due to the shape of the bar, the rotation of the bar results in a not smooth transition to the hoods.



But at the end of the day, yes, you are right, it comes down to what is comfortable for the person. Like if you drop your elbows a lot when riding in the drops, then the bars will invariably need to be tilted up to get a more comfortable drop angle.


Edit: I am not trying to argue with you, sorry if it kind of appears this way. Just putting out my thoughts.

[yehuda]

More Aero

Not in my experience. You probably need to tell the world tour riders that when their making a break away. Or the guy on the front of the peleton trying to close the gap.

Some interesting reading from gerard Vroomen
http://gerard.cc/2011/07/29/body-vs-bar-1/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[warthog1]

But that is the point that I am trying to make ... the angle where the hoods mount (i.e. getting a smooth transition by making the top section/shoulders of the bars parallel to the ground) shouldn't be used purely for the rotation of the bar, it should be the angle of the drops.
Here is an example, which shows that due to the shape of the bar, the rotation of the bar results in a not smooth transition to the hoods.



But at the end of the day, yes, you are right, it comes down to what is comfortable for the person. Like if you drop your elbows a lot when riding in the drops, then the bars will invariably need to be tilted up to get a more comfortable drop angle.


Edit: I am not trying to argue with you, sorry if it kind of appears this way. Just putting out my thoughts.

I don't mind arguing, or debating, or discussing, I generally don't take it too personally, even when I'm called a skulking troll, as I was in the tour of Bright thread

My experience obviously differs from yours with regard to bar position. In any case I don't reckon there is any conventional, contrary to what I posted earlier. This photo gallery has all sorts of bar positions;
http://road.cc/content/feature/122089-b ... -de-france

[Wingnut]

Here is an example, which shows that due to the shape of the bar, the rotation of the bar results in a not smooth transition to the hoods.
.

I believe you are way off the mark with this picture as reference...this is a classic setup that has worked for many previous generations and still does today...no setup is perfect, there is always a compromise with regard to position in the drops or climbing etc...

[Homo Suburbiensis]

Unless I am misinterpreting what you posted, wingnut, that is exactly what I am saying? The set up in that picture is correct and as you say, has worked for so long. So it correctly illustrates what I am trying to get across, it doesn't matter what the shape of the bar (compact, traditional, ergo), the rotation is dictated by the drop angle and not the ability of getting a smooth transition to the hoods (i.e. getting the top section/shoulder parallel to the ground)

Anyway let's get this thread back on track. My bike weighs >10kg, so I guess it doesn't belong here ...
But, yeah, nice BMC yanjarra, I bet the red makes it go faster

[yanjarra]

I built the bike from scratch and did a bit of reading on the bar/hood position and the idea i got from my reading was to set the bottom of drops parallel to ground and then position brake levers so they were as comfortable as possible when in the drops and as parrallel as possible to the curve in the hoods vertically if that makes sense. In any case it seems to feel okay for now and i'll go with it, although i do get a touch of numbness in my left hand but i think that's caused by another issue. Unfortunately i'm as slow on red as i am on any other color.

[warthog1]

There are plenty of ergo bars that are designed so that there is a straight run to the hoods, ie my 3T ergonovas. The horizontal top part adjacent to either side of the stem is flattened and is comfortable to rest the hands and forearms on when the bars are set up with a straight run to the hoods.
If you are in the habit of riding in the drops with your arms locked out straight that will change the angle the drops need to be set at and as HS points out some bars have a relaxed bend where the brake levers mount.
If I'm going to be in the drops it is because I am after a more aero position and the arms will be bent at the elbow so the bars at the drops need to be rotated more to the vertical than some of the photos (particularly that matrix) show.

[pawnii]

I created this thread ages ago.
Great to see there's over 700 posts now

[dainese]

Not light compared to what's out there. But lightest thing I've ever owned. New to the game too. Just concentrating on learning, getting better and fitter. That said, do have an ultegra groupset and mavic wheels to fit.

[TheKaptone]

Only had this a week but I have never owned anything so light. Total joy to ride

[warthog1]

Nice!

[singlespeedscott]

Nice. Not so fussed on the huge saddle/bar drop and straight seatpost though. But you've got to love a frame with a horizontal top tube.

[schroeds]

Just finished the build, added the Enve 1.0 fork, the Cane Creek AER Headset and the AER spacers, used lighter bar tape and cut 1cm off the bars , these changes drop it by another 90 grams.


That is a beautiful bike. I thought I recognised the brake calipers - I almost ordered them myself.

My Giant TCR Advanced SL3 (Medium) has these calipers on it:



These are the same brake calipers as that BMC seen recently in this very topic. Quite pleased with them. They work well. Not too costly either.

It is 7.45kg with everything on it, and a bit more with Garmin on it.

Hi guys can somebody tell me what these brakes are? thanks

[rheicel]

Hi guys can somebody tell me what these brakes are? thanks

Looks like Mr-Ride to me.

View item

[rheicel]

Hi guys can somebody tell me what these brakes are? thanks

Looks like Mr-Ride to me.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/mr-ride-200g ... xyUylTVw~e

[schroeds]

Thanks Rhiecel, these certainly look the goods and weight:dollars is very good. About half what I've been considering!

Wondering if anybody can comment on their performance?

[g-boaf]

Thanks Rhiecel, these certainly look the goods and weight:dollars is very good. About half what I've been considering!

Wondering if anybody can comment on their performance?

They are Planet X Ultra light CNC.

Performance is only average, and they will never stay on centre properly. Do yourself a favour and go Dura Ace 9000. Those things really work.

Looks and 40 or 50 grams are pointless for brakes, you want brakes that really stop.

I swapped them off that bike and put Dura Ace on it instead from my other bike.

[schroeds]

THanks guys appreciate that

[g-boaf]

Got my Canyon Ultimate CF Evo back today after all the parts arrived and it was rebuilt.

It is outrageously light now -weighed it at 6.52kg with following parts:

Canyon Ultimate CF Evo Frameset electric carbon/brown medium
Canyon H36 100/410mm
Canyon S14 VCLS 2.0 seatpost
SRAM E-Tap 11 speed
SRAM bar tape
Shimano Dura Ace FC-9100-P 50/34 cranks, 172.5mm
Kogel ceramic bottom bracket
Shimano Dura Ace 9100 pedals
Specialized Romin Pro 143mm
KMC X11SL chain
SRAM XG-1190 cassette 11-25
Fulcrum Racing Zero competizione wheels + Xentis skewers (those skewers save 20g over standard Fulcrum ones)
S-Works Turbo 24mm tyres
S-Works tubes

Considering those are alloy wheels on it, the weight is just crazy light.

There isn’t a lot more weight to save without going to extremes of non-OEM bars and the OEM specified THM Fibula brakes ($$$$) and those outrageous THM Clavicula cranks.

[singlespeedscott]

Got my Canyon Ultimate CF Evo back today after all the parts arrived and it was rebuilt.

It is outrageously light now -weighed it at 6.52kg with following parts:

Canyon Ultimate CF Evo Frameset electric carbon/brown medium
Canyon H36 100/410mm
Canyon S14 VCLS 2.0 seatpost
SRAM E-Tap 11 speed
SRAM bar tape
Shimano Dura Ace FC-9100-P 50/34 cranks, 172.5mm
Kogel ceramic bottom bracket
Shimano Dura Ace 9100 pedals
Specialized Romin Pro 143mm
KMC X11SL chain
SRAM XG-1190 cassette 11-25
Fulcrum Racing Zero competizione wheels + Xentis skewers (those skewers save 20g over standard Fulcrum ones)
S-Works Turbo 24mm tyres
S-Works tubes

Considering those are alloy wheels on it, the weight is just crazy light.

There isn’t a lot more weight to save without going to extremes of non-OEM bars and the OEM specified THM Fibula brakes ($$$$) and those outrageous THM Clavicula cranks.

11-25 is pretty tight in this day and age, what size cassette did you run whilst riding in Europe?

[g-boaf]

Got my Canyon Ultimate CF Evo back today after all the parts arrived and it was rebuilt.

It is outrageously light now -weighed it at 6.52kg with following parts:

Canyon Ultimate CF Evo Frameset electric carbon/brown medium
Canyon H36 100/410mm
Canyon S14 VCLS 2.0 seatpost
SRAM E-Tap 11 speed
SRAM bar tape
Shimano Dura Ace FC-9100-P 50/34 cranks, 172.5mm
Kogel ceramic bottom bracket
Shimano Dura Ace 9100 pedals
Specialized Romin Pro 143mm
KMC X11SL chain
SRAM XG-1190 cassette 11-25
Fulcrum Racing Zero competizione wheels + Xentis skewers (those skewers save 20g over standard Fulcrum ones)
S-Works Turbo 24mm tyres
S-Works tubes

Considering those are alloy wheels on it, the weight is just crazy light.

There isn’t a lot more weight to save without going to extremes of non-OEM bars and the OEM specified THM Fibula brakes ($$$$) and those outrageous THM Clavicula cranks.

11-25 is pretty tight in this day and age, what size cassette did you run whilst riding in Europe?

11-28 or 11-32, and 50-34 or 52-36. 11-25 is what I use for general riding around here, there isn't anything steep enough and/or long enough climbs to warrant the big cassettes around Sydney. This time though it will be certainly 50-34. The stages are:

1: 97km/2600m+
2: 123km / 3300m+
3: 144km / 4600m+ (finish on Alpe d'Huez)
4: 80km / 2700m+
5: 19km / 1200m+ (finish on Col d'Izoard - beside the monument)
6: 104km / 2300m+
7a: 68km / 1650m+
7b: 125km / 2100m+

This time, Cime de la Bonette (in 7a) will be an untimed descent. I'm not sure why - I was okay with it last year. I don't remember any accidents on it and the road surface is pretty good. There is a pretty big drop off the edge in the higher parts, but if you give it some respect, then it's okay. It's not what I'd call a scary descent, just long and fast.

And the bike as it is:



The Shimano power meter seems to work well and the Wahoo speed sensor is a quantum leap ahead of the unreliable Garmin speed sensor (the one that clips around the wheel hub).

[singlespeedscott]

Got my Canyon Ultimate CF Evo back today after all the parts arrived and it was rebuilt.

It is outrageously light now -weighed it at 6.52kg with following parts:

Canyon Ultimate CF Evo Frameset electric carbon/brown medium
Canyon H36 100/410mm
Canyon S14 VCLS 2.0 seatpost
SRAM E-Tap 11 speed
SRAM bar tape
Shimano Dura Ace FC-9100-P 50/34 cranks, 172.5mm
Kogel ceramic bottom bracket
Shimano Dura Ace 9100 pedals
Specialized Romin Pro 143mm
KMC X11SL chain
SRAM XG-1190 cassette 11-25
Fulcrum Racing Zero competizione wheels + Xentis skewers (those skewers save 20g over standard Fulcrum ones)
S-Works Turbo 24mm tyres
S-Works tubes

Considering those are alloy wheels on it, the weight is just crazy light.

There isn’t a lot more weight to save without going to extremes of non-OEM bars and the OEM specified THM Fibula brakes ($$$$) and those outrageous THM Clavicula cranks.

11-25 is pretty tight in this day and age, what size cassette did you run whilst riding in Europe?

11-28 or 11-32, and 50-34 or 52-36. 11-25 is what I use for general riding around here, there isn't anything steep enough and/or long enough climbs to warrant the big cassettes around Sydney. This time though it will be certainly 50-34. The stages are:

1: 97km/2600m+
2: 123km / 3300m+
3: 144km / 4600m+ (finish on Alpe d'Huez)
4: 80km / 2700m+
5: 19km / 1200m+ (finish on Col d'Izoard - beside the monument)
6: 104km / 2300m+
7a: 68km / 1650m+
7b: 125km / 2100m+

This time, Cime de la Bonette (in 7a) will be an untimed descent. I'm not sure why - I was okay with it last year. I don't remember any accidents on it and the road surface is pretty good. There is a pretty big drop off the edge in the higher parts, but if you give it some respect, then it's okay. It's not what I'd call a scary descent, just long and fast.

And the bike as it is:



The Shimano power meter seems to work well and the Wahoo speed sensor is a quantum leap ahead of the unreliable Garmin speed sensor (the one that clips around the wheel hub).

Bike looks good and that course looks very tough.

Do you change the chain every time you change the cassette?

For me I would just leave the 11-32 on all the time and be done with it, I am lazy though . That and I really don't mind the jumps on the upper end of the cassette when it comes to steep climbs either. Usually all the cassettes with a wide range only have the big jumps on the final 3 sprockets anyway and the rest are within the usual 1 and 2 tooth jumps which is fine for everyday riding.

[g-boaf]

An 11-32 is quite useless around most fairly flat suburban areas. You just wouldn’t use most of it.

May as well only use those big cassettes when they are really needed to avoid wearing them out.

Chains are relatively inexpensive to change anyhow, I’m not changing them that often.

[schroeds]

Was running 11-28 with a mid compact until recently but for Sydney hills I moved to 11-30 and even though I don't like the jumps as much, that 30 is perfect to keep me spinning. Now if only I could afford eTap 12 speed!