Mikes Fixie

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mikesbytes
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Mikes Fixie

Postby mikesbytes » Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:27 pm

Posted details of my fixie build on my bike clubs forum

http://www.dhbc.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3013#3013
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?

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MichaelB
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Postby MichaelB » Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:46 pm

Looks sweet and simple.

But the costs listed are a bit misleading ......

Cost so far;
Double sided tape $2
Sprocket $7
Front brake cable $3
Rear brake cable $3
=============
$15


The TRUE cost is quite different though, as for people like me who start with nothing, have to buy all of the bits that you have already bought, but don't have to shell out more for .....

Anyway, looks good.

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europa
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Postby europa » Fri Oct 26, 2007 3:14 pm

She's a looker alright Mike

Richard
I had a good bike ... so I fixed it

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mikesbytes
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Postby mikesbytes » Fri Oct 26, 2007 3:18 pm

The track bike originally cost me $250 and the total running cost, for 1 year on the track has been $4. I haven't even changed the tyres.

All of the other parts including the pedals were left overs sitting in the garage.

As stated, its got a borrowed rear wheel. I need to buy a new hub and lace the existing rim to it, so there's a bit more cost to come.
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?

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Postby 531db » Sat Oct 27, 2007 12:14 pm

You'll be wanting some form of bottle cage(s) on bike Mike for the Temptation ride - or are you using a hydration pack (Camelback).

Myself, I've bunged an additional bidon cage on the Falcon fixie, the black plastic Cateye dos'nt really match the 1960's steel REG handlebar mounted jobie though.

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Postby mikesbytes » Sat Oct 27, 2007 12:45 pm

I added one water bottle holder for this mornings ride, using the lugs. For tomorrows ride, I'll try to attach another water bottle holder using some hose clips, taking care not the snag the rear wheel
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?

531db
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Postby 531db » Sat Oct 27, 2007 1:05 pm

Depending on the type of bottle cage you are wanting to add (Plastic Cateye style works well), you can often get a secure fit by using decent zip lock cable ties clinched up hard, with tape underneath on the frame to preserve the paint.

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Postby vee_dub » Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:11 pm

mikesbytes wrote:The track bike originally cost me $250 and the total running cost, for 1 year on the track has been $4. I haven't even changed the tyres.

All of the other parts including the pedals were left overs sitting in the garage.

As stated, its got a borrowed rear wheel. I need to buy a new hub and lace the existing rim to it, so there's a bit more cost to come.
hey mate how r u? I got a set of wheels for saleeeee u located in sydney yer? Give me a pm if u want u can have a look.
Dura Ace hub laced to Campag.

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mikesbytes
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Postby mikesbytes » Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:40 pm

vee_dub wrote:
mikesbytes wrote:The track bike originally cost me $250 and the total running cost, for 1 year on the track has been $4. I haven't even changed the tyres.

All of the other parts including the pedals were left overs sitting in the garage.

As stated, its got a borrowed rear wheel. I need to buy a new hub and lace the existing rim to it, so there's a bit more cost to come.
hey mate how r u? I got a set of wheels for saleeeee u located in sydney yer? Give me a pm if u want u can have a look.
Dura Ace hub laced to Campag.
Are they road wheels or track wheels?
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?

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Postby vee_dub » Sun Oct 28, 2007 7:20 am

they r track wheels... but I used on the road for less than 4 months.

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GaryF
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Postby GaryF » Sun Oct 28, 2007 10:33 am

Hi Mike,

Just had a look at your link to the Fuji, it looks really nice as a fixie.

I'm seeing quite a few Fuji track bikes around - they seem like good value for money and with so many people riding them, they must be nice to ride. How have you found yours?

Gary.

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Postby mikesbytes » Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:16 am

Performance wise the ride went well today, but its causing a lot of problems with my injured shoulder. The blame is with the handlebars and stem, I need a longer stem and wider handlebars, neither of which is going to happen. What I will try is rotating the handlbars, they seem to be pointing downwards a bit too much and I may lower them a bit more to change the angle of the arms off the shoulders and to use the back more to support me.

BTW 74 inch (48*17) was no problem what so ever going up hills. I did suffer in the high cadence situations, so if this was the norm I'd go up on the gearing but its probably more a case of letting me get use to first.
If the R-1 rule is broken, what happens to N+1?

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