Using a trainer wheel?

[Jace]

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with setting up a rear wheel for use on a trainer only? I don't really want to burn up my tyres doing trainer miles when I could have another trainer specific wheel but My current set up is Di2 so I guess its not quite as simple as having a wheel and replacing it straight in and out without reprogramming is it? Unless I get an identical cassette to my current one?

Thanks!

[Cul]

It can be a simple as swapping a rear wheel; I run two sets of wheels one with a 12/25 cassette and the other with 11/21 cassette, I find all I need to do is a 1/4 turn of the barrel adjuster and it shifts perfectly. To save yourself a little trouble it helps to have the same hub on both both wheels, as spacing can vary from brand to brand.

[Duck!]

My current set up is Di2 so I guess its not quite as simple as having a wheel and replacing it straight in and out without reprogramming is it? Unless I get an identical cassette to my current one?

It's not about the cassette being identical or not, more the offset of the cassette from the centreline of the hub, which as Cul said can vary slightly between brands. In fact with Di2, if a correction is required it's actually easier than a mechanical setup. Just go into adjustment mode (press & hold the button on the junction box until a solid red light comes on), give it a few clicks in the direction you need it to go, go back to normal mode (hold button until red light goes off) & you're away. You can actually do this on the fly.

[Jace]

It can be a simple as swapping a rear wheel; I run two sets of wheels one with a 12/25 cassette and the other with 11/21 cassette, I find all I need to do is a 1/4 turn of the barrel adjuster and it shifts perfectly. To save yourself a little trouble it helps to have the same hub on both both wheels, as spacing can vary from brand to brand.

Good to know it can be done without too much complication!

It's not about the cassette being identical or not, more the offset of the cassette from the centreline of the hub, which as Cul said can vary slightly between brands. In fact with Di2, if a correction is required it's actually easier than a mechanical setup. Just go into adjustment mode (press & hold the button on the junction box until a solid red light comes on), give it a few clicks in the direction you need it to go, go back to normal mode (hold button until red light goes off) & you're away. You can actually do this on the fly.

I honestly have no idea about how the Di2 works, I don't know how to make it do anything! The LBS didn't show me how it works. So the clicking to move it in the the direction you are speaking of, would that be the same as adjusting the barrel adjuster on a mech setup? Coincidently, do you happen to know if the programming gets wiped or something when you charge the battery? It was programmed that I could shift multiple gears by holding down the shift button, after I charged the battery once, it doesn't do it anymore?

So to have a setup where I could swap the wheels without any adjustments I would need matching hubs and matching cassettes?

[Duck!]

I honestly have no idea about how the Di2 works, I don't know how to make it do anything! The LBS didn't show me how it works. So the clicking to move it in the the direction you are speaking of, would that be the same as adjusting the barrel adjuster on a mech setup?

Yes, it's equivalent to tweaking the barrel adjuster. For example your shifting is a bit slow climbing to a bigger sprocket, with a mech system you'd wind the adjuster out a bit. On Di2 when you're in adjustment mode, the official Shimano method is to press the button that does that shift move untill you start getting chain noise on the next sprocket up, then go back four clicks. However once you've got a bit of a feel for the system you can just give it a click or two in the requred direction to get it right.

Coincidently, do you happen to know if the programming gets wiped or something when you charge the battery? It was programmed that I could shift multiple gears by holding down the shift button, after I charged the battery once, it doesn't do it anymore?

Not sure what's going on there, the system should retain its settings while the battery is off being charged.

So to have a setup where I could swap the wheels without any adjustments I would need matching hubs and matching cassettes?

Don't worry about the cassette, unless maybe you have a Shimano on one wheel & a SRAM on the other, which could alter offset. Any other difference is irrelevant. Generally hubs from any given manufacturer are going to be pretty similar, so as long as you stick within a brand you'll be pretty right.

[Jace]

Hmmm, maybe I shouldn't be surprised it doesn't work properly since they had so many issues setting it up in the first place.

As for the wheel, so my current cassette is 11-28 (10 speed Shimano), it wouldn't matter if I put say a 11-25 on in its place? That would need some kind of reprogramming surely? Plus my current wheels are Fulcrums, would it matter if I used say an R500 in terms of the hubs?

Cheers

[Duck!]

Both questions have already been answered in previous posts.

[Jace]

Both questions have already been answered in previous posts.

ok clearly I am a little slow in this regard...

Yes I get the part where you said the cassette wouldn't matter although if a derailleur is programmed for 11-28 surely it would !! BAN ME NOW FOR SWEARING !! itself if I put a 11-25 in it with no adjustment?

RE: Hubs, I wouldn't have a bloody clue if a fulcrum hub and Shimano hub are the same! That was why I asked the question!

[Xplora]

Jace, if you can afford Di2, you should probably spend some money on an identical wheel to your good wheel. Don't be a tightarse, Di2 is a big boy's toy and if you are wealthy enough to buy it you should be wealthy enough to get your LBS to hold your hand through this rather than the Wiggle and BNA angle.

[Duck!]

Both questions have already been answered in previous posts.

ok clearly I am a little slow in this regard...

Yes I get the part where you said the cassette wouldn't matter although if a derailleur is programmed for 11-28 surely it would showtime itself if I put a 11-25 in it with no adjustment?

No. Spacing between sprockets is the same whether you're running an 11-21 corncob or a 12-30 wall-climber, so the programmed shift intervals will remain constant. The wall-climber might require more B-tension, but that's entirely separate from programming.

RE: Hubs, I wouldn't have a bloody clue if a fulcrum hub and Shimano hub are the same! That was why I asked the question!

Very first reply to the thread:

To save yourself a little trouble it helps to have the same hub on both both wheels, as spacing can vary from brand to brand.

[Jace]

Jace, if you can afford Di2, you should probably spend some money on an identical wheel to your good wheel. Don't be a tightarse, Di2 is a big boy's toy and if you are wealthy enough to buy it you should be wealthy enough to get your LBS to hold your hand through this rather than the Wiggle and BNA angle.

Haha, it was actually a very cheap pick up. End of season floor stock model from LBS that was no longer stocking that brand anymore. I am not sure I'd call my wheels good...ok maybe. Either way I can't seem to find an available rear wheel anywhere the same.

[Jace]

[quote="Duck!"] No. Spacing between sprockets is the same whether you're running an 11-21 corncob or a 12-30 wall-climber, so the programmed shift intervals will remain constant. The wall-climber might require more B-tension, but that's entirely separate from programming.

[quote]

Ok cool. Thats all I needed to know.